The next sign that something was different on this day was the huge number of kids on launch. The elementary school was closed, and older kids swarmed us. They had a day off from their usual activities--school, work, loitering elsewhere--for the holiday.
The kids crowding in close was a bit overwhelming, but Chris and I enjoyed talking to Indra, here on the left, and her brother Wilson. Both had very good English, although Indira was quick to admit that her younger brother was better. Both seemed really pleased to have an opportunity to practice speaking English. They are from the village but live in Pokhara to go to school. Indra spoke of missing her village and being glad to have a chance to visit for the holiday.
On the drive home, I realized that all the sugar cane vendors I'd seen the past couple days were out in streets because of Shivaratri. At night, the tradition is to have a bonfire. People hold the sugar cane in the fire, and then when it's really hot they hit the cane on the ground so it pops. It's loud like a firecracker. The air smells of burned sugar. Hot bits of cane fly into the air.
I have a feeling Heather and I only caught the early end of the party--the family portion of the celebration. There were kids and parents gathered at the bonfire on the main street of Lakeside (the neighborhood of Pokhara where we were staying), buying sugar cane and holding it over the fire. Others were lining up at the altar contained in the trunk of the huge tree in the road to pray and make offerings.
The bonfire.
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